FAQ Answers to the most common questions

Wings are included for the 100 & 80 series drawers, but not the Solo (read about it here). Wings are designed to bolt down out of the box, but several customers have modified them to be held down via magnets and removable, or hinged. Check out the threads on IH8MUD for ideas and tips.
KISS Drawers are built from baltic birch, extruded aluminum, and various brackets and bolts. This creates a light, strong, durable, quiet drawer system.
I tested traditional drawer slides, bearings, and Ultra-High Molecular Weight (UHMW) slides. I took a poll of 27 likely buyers as to their feelings on the best way to open and close the drawers. We all came to the same conclusion, which happened to be the most expensive (doh!) - UHMW.

Now I've seen several drawers built that slide on top of strips of UHMW, with varying degrees of satisfaction, but finding these pieces that are specifically designed and extruded to work with the T-slot channels was my eureka moment for this project. If it hadn't been for the cost I would never have even asked the question what was best. These account for $90 of the build cost, but they're worth it.

For those unfamiliar, UHMW is a super plastic. It is 'self-lubricating' like PTFE but with much more abrasion resistance, is used in armor, climbing equipment, as the surface for artificial ice rinks, and a whole lot more. The wiki article is a great read.

They are lighter (1.1 lbs vs 24 lbs for 2 good drawer slides), have no moving parts to gum up or rattle, do not slide open on their own on a hill like drawer slides, lock the drawers in place to eliminate shifting, and only take 3/16" on each side instead of the 3/4" for traditional slides.

On that last item, the space isn't trivial. Saving 9/16" per side allows wider drawers: 4 sides * 9/16" is an extra 2-1/4" of drawer space. With drawers 40" long and 8" tall that's an extra 720 cubic inches of volume you get in your drawers because of these slides!
KISS Drawers are built from baltic birch, and ship au naturel - they arrive ready for you to finish in whatever fits your vision for your truck's build. Check out the gallery for inspiration from other happy customers, or check out this thread listing the materials, methods, and tips:
The method depends on the model. The 100 series uses U-bolts through the 3rd row seat brackets. The 80 series uses through-bolts into the factory threads for the 3rd row seats. The FJ uses through-botls in the front, and turnbuckles in the rear, all using the factory tie-down points. The Solo uses whatever you come up with! (a pdf of various proven options is emailed after your order, in order to have on hand when the drawers arrive.)
No special tools are required (just sandpaper, screwdriver, and a hammer). If you've ever put together a piece of furniture from Ikea (or similar) you're ready for KISS Drawers. Assembly and installation takes 3-4 hours, excluding mods and painting/staining/etc.
Simple, I took a different approach than the big guys - you know the phrase about necessity and invention? I'm a dude who wanted drawers for his truck and didn't want to spend a fortune, so after reading a few hundred build threads I went and designed some. Using my experience designing products and engineering for a living, I created a detailed model in Sketchup (for those wondering) and iterated a dozen times or so to shape a computer vision into hard reality. But that doesn't really tell you HOW, right?

From my perspective, the big guys incur costs in a few ways, so I set out to avoid them:
  1. Options and finishes: everyone has ideas on what they want, and if you try to accommodate them you spend a LOT on R&D which you need to then recover, and stocking a bunch of different parts and finishes (cost goes up).
  2. Setup costs: any time you see sheet metal or cast parts there are setup costs in the background needed to make those parts for your design (and again, costs go up). I specifically designed around materials I could source with minimal effort, and no setup fees other than my CNC'er.
  3. Shipping Costs: Most every drawer manufacture ships you fully-assembled drawers because their design was never intended to be assembled by the user; that's tough to get right. Those fully assembled drawers require freight shipments (big cost) whereas KISS Drawers ship via FedEx Ground.
  4. Marketing and Admin: It's a simple reality that larger organizations have more overhead that need to be paid from somewhere (so costs again go up). I'm a guy having fun after work, with no lease, no employees, no obligations other than to my family to not spend more time on this adventure than makes financial sense.
  5. Customizations: Several of the big guys will customize the drawers for you, adding a cutting board, a 3rd drawer, a fridge slide - really a great service if you need it, and my hat's off to them for offering it. But that service costs $$$ and KISS Drawers were never intended to compete with them. We are the affordable DIY solution for the 80% of the cruiser population who would rather buy a front bumper, rack, AND KISS Drawers instead of just (1) drawer set.
Repeating the theme of 'your starting point' they contain no built-in or integrated hardware to lash down your gear. That said it is HIGHLY recommended for you to secure anything in your truck because in the event of an accident those items can become projectiles. That is one of the huge benefits to installing drawers, they make your truck safer. For ideas on ways to secure stuff, check out this thread on IH8MUD for ideas.
There are a bunch of talented, creative owners posting new ideas all the time over on IH8MUD.com. Check out:

KISS Drawers Mods and 100 series questions

KISS Drawer mods for 80 series
Another fun decision, how do you want to open them? You can order drawers with either cutouts or blank fronts, for you to then select and install your own handles. For ideas on what others are using and liking, check out this post for ideas.
Yes! That said you may need to do something with the gap between the drawers and seats, depending on your sleeping materials. On a 100 series the drawer height matches the folded seat height and you only need to span a couple inch gap with a piece of foam or sleeping pad. An 80 series needs a lttle bit more because of their more extreme folded angle, so you need to stuff that gap with something, or fabricate some sort of spanner. Check the 80 thread for ideas on how others address this.
Yes, even the bottle jack can be removed if you need it. Not easily, but with a little wiggling it will come out. If you look at the top profile you'll see I specifically notched this area for this reason.
It's something you could do a few times a year, but I doubt you would want to every month or so. I would estimate it is a 10-20 minute job to insert or remove.